Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Leaving Thailand

Kara and I sat contentedly snacking on our respective bags of snacks listening to the disgruntled passengers in the back of our mini-bus. They were raising hell because they seemed to find it absurd that our driver wanted to shove a fourth person into the three seats that took up the back of the van. We laughed at how inappropriate she was being, and also the requests shouted from the back of the bus for our driver to slow down and stop driving in the wrong lanes. Silly tourists. Traveling in SE Asia you should not yell (your losing face) and you should not find it absurd that your vehicle will have a disproportionate number of people to available seats. Just be thankful when no one has puked on you, and if you manage to snag a seat located near a window (however, if an elderly person, mother with small kids, or monk happens to board your required to offer them your seat). So rather than being appalled at the speed your driver chooses to go, or the fact that the person next to you is practically sitting in your lap, you'll have to suck it up and find ways to make your drive pleasant. In this case we were up next to the driver so we befriended him and got him to rock out with us to some local Thai-island reggae, "This one goes out to my brothers and sisters who we lost in Ko Phi Phiiiii!"
These are the things I have gotten used to since traveling, and it always strikes me as funny when I am surrounded by people who do not find these discomforts normal. In fact, Thailand has been incredibly comfortable, and I know that I will be giving up a few of the conveniences I have enjoyed here when we leave for Cambodia, our next destination.
We spent a few days in Krabi province Island hopping. We managed to make it to Ao Nang, Ton Sai, Ko Phi Phi, and then to the less touristy Hat Yao before our days of lounging on the beach and snorkelling were abruptly ended by stormy weather. Hoping this was just isolated to the regions further south we turned back north and arrived at Ko Lanta to discover that the crap weather was everywhere along the Andaman Coast. The Islands offer few things to do in torrential downpours so we gave up and hopped a bus back to Bangkok early.
We concluded out time in Thailand with a Thai massage, a couple trips to the movies, shopping, and alot of good food. We also celebrated Loi Krathong, a Thai festival where Krathongs, made of flowers and banana leaves with incense and a candle stuck in the top, are set afloat in whatever nearby body of water is available. It is an offering to the river goddess, and it is believed you can make a wish as you set the Krathong out onto the water. We went to Lumphini park (Bangkok's version of central park) and watched people send off their Krathongs. It was really beautiful to watch the small lake lit up by all the floating Krathongs.
The other major event in Bangkok was the Princess' funeral. Events and traditions focused on honoring the princess were taking place everywhere. During the official days of mourning the entire city was wearing only black and white. Thais are unbelievably loyal to the royal family. THere is a short anthem to the king before you see movies or start large events and everyone stands up and stops talking. THis even happened at the commencement of a huge outdoor night market we went to in Chiang Mai. It was impressive to see the sea of people streaming along past the stalls lining the road all freeze and fall silent as the anthem was played.
The devotion to the king is just as strong for all the royal family so everyone was in mouring over the death of the princess. The formal ceremonies had been going on for a week and a half by the time we left, with more still to come. Considering that we were expecting to have our time in Bangkok cut short by the political unrest it was a surprise that instead of red and yellow shirted protesters (the colors of the two rival political parties) we were instead witness to the people of Bangkok coming together over the one aspect of their government they all support, the royal family.

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